My wife and I just returned, and I think a few impressions might be welcome by those on this site.

This was my forth annual trip to Panama. Each has been a bit over a week, and all focused on working toward another home there. This year, we wanted to get the pensionado visas under way, before the rules change (as I expect they will if the world economic situation continues to deteriorate in Europe and Anglo America). I used the same lawyer from David I’d used for a real estate deal that fell through. Although I think the application was made successfully, I have reason to belive that he is not the best one to use for this, at least in Panama City. Just filing the application and getting multiple entry visas took a full 2 plus about another 1/2 day sitting (or standing) in the overcrowded offices of the Migration Office. I think with other help you could get it done more quickly. FWIW, I understand that now that the HIV scare is past, the medical check is pretty cursory.

The second reason we went was to meet Bob O’Neil to talk about our situation and how to get set up with such services as a brokerage account. I also wanted to check out elevated locations closer to Panama City. Heretofor, I’ve focused on Chiqui, and we do find Boquete appealing. But it’s certainly expensive and too far from Panama City (which the locals call “Panama”) to go for anything routine. Driving it is said to take about 6 hours. This trip, we visited Cerro Azul, El Valle, and drove down to Lago Bayano, well to the east of Tocumen Airport. In a nutshell, we thought that Cerro Azul and other points east of Panama City are ripe for development, but it may be awhile before that reaches Lago Bayano. There is Pan American Highway standard road development from Tocumen all the way to Chepo. This is about 11″ concrete slab paving in a 4 lane road, with somewhat limited access, much like the road we saw in David and from Panama City west to El Valle. But Cerro Azul is early stage, with few expats living there, and no real centre of local community life. I’m concerned that much of Cerro Azul is convex, and forms clouds readily. Unless you can find a local valley (as the one hosting the one local restaurant), it will be foggy and wet much of the time. Mildew City, we expect. But cheap and really close to Panama. The road up is in excellent shape.

El Valle de Anton is an old vocanic caldera, the floor of which is flat, at about 2000ft elevation, and a resident population of about 6000. There is a “community of weekenders”–people from amongst the wealthist old families of Panama who drive the 2 hours up from the city to weekend in El Valle. They are said to have little to do with the residents, and are conspicuous in their oversized SUVs and petrol golf carts. Yet I was told they have made a huge impact on the community. Not only do they occupy much of the land, they’re power has impacted local government, restricting lot sizes to 1 ha (2.2 acres), and no more than 2 stories to preclude condos and apartments. Perhaps so, but I saw lots smaller. Perhaps they were grandfathered in. But it is fairly clear that growth is limited by such rules, and there are quite a few big houses on large estates. There’s also a resident expat community, but not a large one. One couple runs a local zoo-endangered species breeding facility that would make a much bigger town proud. Others run local businesses, such as the B&B we stayed at (Anton Valle Hotel). This is a very nice place, and we recommend it, the owner/operators, and even their dog and cockatoo. Note however, that the two gay guys running it have it up for sale. (FWIW, this is the second time I’ve stayed at a B&B run by a couple of gay guys, and so far I’ve been extraordinarily impressed. Suppose there’s a directory to such places?). We have no real take on the real estate situation there, but heard that there are places available if you look. No multiple listing service, which seems an idea foreign to Panama. Two final notes about El Valle: There is a really good bakery, a good pizza and pasta place open only a few days a week, and a really good community market open on Sunday mornings.

Since I’ve not commented here on Boquete, I’ll add these notes from prior years. This is a high elevation town of about 16k, with something like 3k expats. The village sits on a river in a valley, at about an elevation of 5k ft. Property prices are high, although I understand deals can now be had from folks who’ve given up flipping for big profits or who have given up on the idea of a second home in Panana. There’s now an active list serve for the expats, and I get about 3 messages a day. Lots of activities are being organised now, and there are several good to very good restaurants, and other amenities now.

Much is out there about Panama City itself. But this is the first time I’ve driven in town, and I’ve not seen much about that. FWIW….
Car travel in Panama City is really tough for the newcomer. I’m not shy on the road, so it’s not being intimidated or unsure where the edges of the car are. Rather it’s maps that don’t show the one-ways, a near absence of street signs you can read, and warning direction signs that are unclear. Is this sign saying that we’re coming to, say, Simon Boliver street at the next intersection, or that if you want to get there, hang a right at the light and head off that way? Using full names, especially 4-name style, means they’re not only hard to read, but even harder to remember. And then there are the synonyms, I think, where a street has a person’s name or a number, and a map may show one and the signs another. This is an old city on hilly country, so many roads do not follow a grid. In China I had great luck with maps (all in Chinese), but which showed bus routes. I could eventually figure out what bus to take to get somewhere, and where to pick it up. To get home could pull out my Chinese language packet of business cards and show a cab driver the one for a destination I wanted next. I’ve not yet found anything about the Panama City bus system. Busses are typically old US school buses decorated outrageously. They no longer play music at ear-splitting levels, or allow smoking. You identify a bus by reading the terminous destinations painted on the windscreen (no, I don’t know how they see enough to drive). During the rather extended rush hours they are really full of students, and the poorer folk in town. At a stop a barker jumps off the stairs and screams out destinations. (I take it they are private companies and get paid by the passenger). Fares are cheap, I I’ve never felt in any danger.
One final note for recipients of “Simon Black’s” list of Panamanian contacts. I can concur that the person he said to get in touch with first is a really great contact. He was available, helpful, and someone I’d love to spend a couple of hours with sipping an adult beverage on a veranda. Something I heartily indend to address next time I’m in country. But of course he’s a busy lad. Don’t bother asking about my lawyer for immigration issues. Just call him. I might add that my impression just adds credibility to what “Simon” says about his contacts. Thanks, “Simon”.
I picked up a SIM mobile cell phone without trouble. The clerk asked for ID, but didn’t insist on it. I could also buy prepay cards to top up the account. I got this at a shop run by Chinese immigrants in El Dorado. My sales rep was a young Chinese with very good English. He set the phone up for me, and it was only $20. Note that the Movil service is in Spanish, so although the phone menus were set by my sales guy to English, the messages from the company and the instructions on the top up cards are in Spanish. When I tried to use it in New Mexico, I couldn’t connect. So I’m not sure how broadly useful it will be for private conversations originating outside Panama. I’ll give it a try in NZ and see what happens. They have SIM card prepays there, too, and I don’t recall needing ID. I’ll try to check that out when I return home mid-Nov.
The law has changed on pensionado visas, it seems. They used to take a long time. They issued you a temporary visa/ID card, and you had to be present to pick up the permanent one when they were issued in 3 months or you had to pay a fine for not being around. I’ve been told they now have legislated a 3 month limit for the Office of Migration to process the application, and there now is no fine for pensionado applicants who are not around. We may return to Panama from New Zealand to pick up the permanent visas when issued and check out property some more. What we end up doing is unclear, and partly depends on whether we can sell the vacant sea-view lots we have in New Zealand, and whether we try to and succeed in selling our house and lot adjacent to those. I intend to put something up on the web about those if/when we put them on the market.

Phil

Thank you,

On a different note, I’m heading into the jungle in Sumatra, Indonesia, and was wondering what you thought of the malaria medications. Every western doctor says I need them but a lot of the old hands I know wont take them cause they destroy your liver and they’ve been fine. So I’m wondering if you can provide any insight on that topic. Have any of your medical contacts have told you anything?

This Fall (2009) we will be offering official government published Citizenship programs never before offered from Central America Countries. The process will take 45-60 days for a citizenship to be granted. Then another two weeks to get the passport. The passport allows for visa free travel to the EU, Central and South America and much of Asia. It is rare to ever see a fast track citizenship program like this.

————–

Have you heard anything along these lines? Sounds like a fast turnaround for a second passport. Thanks.

Thanks for the entertaining, interesting and informative notes!
D

Yes, Mongolia sounds fancinating, and I want to know much more about it.

Love the idea of letter on Mongolia to Indonesia, (I might have some contributions), But am hurting from the depression and could not afford a really high price. I am cancelling many newsletters now. Keeping Maybury and hopefully you.

As to your price, could you keep it under U$200.00 per year? I will work also, if desired.

By the way, what is the female situation in Mongolia :-?

Thanks……………… Gary

Gary

well for you guys – the lastest from India is that the government has introduced a new tax code that lowers the peak tax rate for corporates and increases the exemptions for individuals – just what you want to incentivise for people to earn more.

moreover – few of the important bills are pending in India as of today – education bill, insurance bill, decision to decided the price of crude oil and NG thru market rates rather than the subsidies. This is going to impact quite a few companies dramatically.

and as you know India is suffering from a major drought conditions these days – few water treatment, irrigation and seeds companies are going to be the beneficiaries because of the same

I just tried to sign up for early notification of the Panama Black paper…I don’t think the web form was working.

Thanks

Love reading your posts, by the way!

I think it is the only planned city in the world (correct me if I am wrong). Constructed and planned as a poster child for all the future developments of urban areas in India the city boasts of world class living quality. Also it is a 45min drive from the beautiful himalayas.

Just to give you an idea about the property rates – in todays newspaper on of the biggest realtors here was selling a 251 sq mtr villa for Rs 66 lakh or 132k USD @50 INR conversion rate….

having lived in various cities in India – if you want a city life of quality with a little downside to career opportunities – nothing like it.

Actually I would like to be part of this newsletter if you move forward with this project. Are there any near-term opportunities in the year 2010 to work on the ground for this newsletter? I am fluent in Chinese (speak Cantanese and some Mandarin) and English, well-traveled and computer-literate, with excellent business, management and people skills. My formal profession is in project management (was in corporate IT and now in Real Estate.) and I hold a PMP designation (recognized world-wide as a Project Management Professional).

Oh yes, I think it would be great if you can keep the cost under $300 for the first year as most people would be willing to pay this price to try out a new newsletter.

Keep it up

Mark