Selling snake oil in the Valley of Longevity

by Simon Black · 30 comments

April 22, 2010
Vilcabamba, Ecuador

There must be something in the water down here.  They call this place the “Valley of Longevity” because it’s not uncommon for people to live well past the century mark… and it’s true.

Driving around the town last night and this morning, I couldn’t help but notice so many elders going on about their business. Mind you, I didn’t exactly card anyone (record keeping here is quite poor), but their appearance and the stories they tell clearly suggests an age that is unimaginable to most.

What’s even more striking, though, is their good health. You’d ordinarily expect a centenarian to be weak and decrepit.  On the contrary, these folks were extraordinarily alert, engaged, and physically fit (relatively speaking)… essentially, how you would consider a healthy 65 to 70 year old in the western world.

The 5-hour drive from Cuenca was breathtaking; I found the roads to be of excellent quality, and the scenery was similar to Wyoming and the Austrian Alps.

1 Selling snake oil in the Valley of Longevity

2 Selling snake oil in the Valley of Longevity

Make no mistake, though, the southern Andes in Ecuador are a far cry from Europe or North America.

I’ve talked this week about how Ecuador is an exceedingly cheap country… but in the major cities like Quito, Guayaquil, and even Cuenca, you don’t have to sacrifice too many amenities for the cheap prices.

Down here in Loja province, though, it’s like going through a time warp.  Houses without electricity and running water are common, and you see people riding mules and horses everywhere you look.

Consequently, as beautiful as it is, this isn’t an area that I would consider buying property. As I mentioned on Tuesday, being a ‘wealthy’ landowner next to a poor village is probably bad politics in Ecuador.

Ironically, I noticed a great deal of expensive new construction in the area, clearly catering to gringos who don’t mind overpaying for the privilege of living in the Valley of Longevity.

Compared to other property deals that I mentioned yesterday, the Vilcabamba properties are at least 3-5 times more expensive… $300,000 for a small house on 2 acres near Vilcabamba vs. $150,000 for a large house on 10 acres near Cuenca.

I’ve seen this happen in a lot of different countries… a particular area is ‘discovered’ by gringos, and they start building a community that’s eye-gouging multiples more expensive than adjacent properties.

Needless to say, the developers and sales agents always insist that their property is of much higher quality and luxury, hence ‘worth’ the enormous premium. My property tour in Vilcabamba was no exception, almost to the point that I wondered if I would receive a free bottle of snake oil for purchasing a lot.

Personally, I don’t see the point in relocating to such a free-spirited, healthy place, only to close myself away in an overpriced, walled-off, gated community.  Naturally, the marketing folks at these communities strongly disagree, and this is exactly what I was talking about yesterday when I discussed ‘trusted contacts.’

There are too many people out there whose business model is to take advantage of the uninitiated.  They look sharp and sound sharp, but their opinions absolutely cannot be trusted, particularly when it comes to the benefits of overpaying.

Here’s the bottom line– I’ve spent a week on the ground on this trip to Ecuador, and given certain changes in the laws since I last looked at the market, I’ve decided to definitely pick up some property here.

Most likely, though, I’ll be buying near either Quito or Cuenca, and with the help of my trusted advisors in those cities.  Land is cheap, beautiful, and of significant value… plus I’ll get some additional residency benefits that I’ll share with you later.

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  • http://WWW.GOLFCARDEPOT.COM Christian

    please compare Ecuador to Panama to buy commercial property
    like in QUITO exemple .I find on the internet an hotel for backpacker for $150,000 the secound and 3rd floor of the edificio and the roof terrace

  • Jesse Craig

    How do I e mail to Simon Black?

  • CM

    Yes, where I purchased property in Croatia, I have chosen to go very old school and use masters of traditional stonemasonry – instead of buying into the one (overpriced) gated community development aimed primarily at Brits. The DIY approach has had a few drawbacks, but it’s been a lot more enjoyable. It’s also fun being literally the only “Jenki” on the island.

    Gorgeous photos.

  • Paul

    Just wanted to comment on your article. From my view, you are right on the money. I live in AZ. but have a summer home in Quito as well. I married a woman from Ecuador 21 years ago. Never been to Vilcabamba, just too out of the way. I loved Cuenca. Cumbaya is really where you want to be, but I hope the gringos all stay in Vilcabamba.

  • Victor Fernandes

    Thank you for your keen observation and forthright comments.
    Two things would help: one, some pros and cons to decide between Ecuador and Panama; the other, to compare ease of getting there each winter. My residence is Canada.

    Again, many thanks!

  • Laura

    Hi Simon,
    I’m really enjoying your daily emails. Lots of great information so far, especially about Latin and South America. As enticing as Panama and Ecuador sound, I am looking to explore a country with a cooler climate and low elevation with similar free market principles. Is there such a country you could recommend? Maybe in Asia perhaps? Many thanks for your valuable website and daily emails.

    • Chris

      You won’t find any cool climates at low elevation with “free market principles” in Asia. You could go to northern China or Japan, which aren’t really free markets. You could go to a hill station in Malaysia or India or the Philippines (but there are no cool places at low altitudes).

      In Central Europe, Czech Republic, Slovakia and Poland would probably tick your boxes, but it’s more expensive than South America.

    • sdca

      Chile comes to mind.
      It’s not tropical-actually,the country is so big, it encompasses a number of climates. And you can find low altitude. There are good expat forums and blogs on Chile, if you google them. I agree with the other poster, that finding your criteria in Asia would be tough, depends on what you need the ‘free market principles’ for.
      ie, if you are living as a foreigner, a country can seem pretty free market to you-the economic regulations and laws don’t really affect your life, beyond obviously the standard behaviors you would follow in any country. Often, you can get around alot by being a foreigner, as well. (in some countries or regions within a country.)

      It really depends on what type of free market principles you are looking for: societal, economic/banking, etc. based on your needs/economic status.

      You could try Taiwan; the summers are super hot, but the winter is mild to cold in most areas. It’s got pretty cheap cost of living, and less rich/poor divide than, say, phillipines, which people seem to tout as so great most of the time.
      The Taiwanese are very friendly and welcoming, too, and the standard of living is arguably higher (for the average person living there) than most parts of Asia, except Japan and Hong Kong, and South Korea.

  • http://www.sachsinsurance.com Paul Sachs

    I am intrigued with the information you have sent on Ecuador. Things here in the states are not really terrific. Looking for an alternative retirement area is fun but tough. Is there an expat group in Ecuador like the one in Guatemala that has some kind of publication? I am exploring options in Costa Rica and Ecuador.

    Paul Sachs

  • Cathy

    Dear Simon,

    I’m with you on this gates community stuff, especially dominated by blue hairs with nothing to do but play golf. What’s the point of finding a good place to live and then walling myself off from the community? If I need the walls, maybe it isn’t the right place to live. And anyone who builds a MacMansion in the rural third world better have gates y varias guardespaldas tambien. Add a neon sign that says, “Kidnap me.”

    This American fascination with the slow death of “retirement” is puzzling to me. They crave leisure, then become bored. They subsist on mindless entertainment and modern conveniences like, heaven forbid, microwaved frozen food and cable TV. They want to front the fairway, but have respiratory problems from all the pollen and chemicals. These people are living on a reservation, whether in the US or overseas. They isolate themselves from the young and turn very old, very fast. I saw this with my in-laws, who “retired” from the military in their early 40s (translation: went on welfare upon ending their public-works-program job) and immediately acted older than their years due to living in retirement communities with no meaningful work. Geez, all they talked about was who had what ailment. So and so has the flu became the most important news of the week.

    I’m researching bug out places and most of the stuff I find talks about laying in a hammock all day and what the hospitals are like. How about the biz climate, what are the major industries, important exports and imports, opportunities to make money not only for me but for my college age children, university facilities, prices of electronics, ways to tap into financial markets, availability of fresh organic produce, suitability for growing my own food–you know, living, not sponging off the younger generation sweating it out back in the good ol’ USA while I let my brain atrophy. I know, I know, there’s no market for this kind of information…

    Your newsletter comes closest to what I need and I thank you to myself every day.

    • BW

      My sentiments as well, Cathy. I’m not interested in a place to vegetate quietly in comfort. Just don’t want to live inside that Great Wall being built around the US.

      I’m researching universities or institutes of study and such in the cities/countries which Simon has mentioned (I was surprised at what is available in Malaysia) to check out what kind of intellectual life is offered along with the cheap meals and hospital facilities.

      It’s possible to learn a lot on the internet these days about all manner of subjects, but it’s nice to know when there are physical libraries available or possibilities for creative and entrepreneural activities – besides being a landlord.

    • sdca

      I think you are on the front lines of creating this type of place that you described,t hat you are looking for.

      I would check out Chile, based on what you said. Their organic movement is not really existent, I don’t think-but it seems like a place where there’s some room to create what you want. And, good old Mexico may also be a good choice. There are so many beautiful colonial, university towns there, that are largely unknown to foreigners—places that are also prosperous and safe. Mexico has a solid intellectual tradition; apparently Nicaragua is full of poets-it’s a national pasttime. I personally always wonder why Turke is not on anyone’s radar, either. I think they may be restrictive w/foreign property ownership, and obviously socially they are a society in flux, but still pretty conservative. They have alot of resources on multiple levels, however. Be sure to let us know if/when you find that place for you, btw!

  • http://nextbigthings.org Jon

    Great photo of the valley with the rainbow!

    Thanks for the eyecandy Simon!

  • Mike Mac Donald

    We are a gay couple, 48 & 37. I was wondering if this is a gay friendly area. Is there a city, any night life, beachs. Do you have any pictures of the downtown of one of the citys.

    Thanks
    Mike

    • sdca

      Why don’t you google pics of the downtown at night, and search Lonely Planet Ecuador, as well as google Gay travel ecuador? Those would be good starting points. Sovereign Man is obviously just a spring board for ideas and sharing. You need to branch out from this blog in order to get in depth info.
      I am sure I can find a handful of photos w/in 20 seconds right now, of downtown Quito, for example, on the internet.

      Simon’s not the first person to go to these places, people.
      Also, public libraries usually have guidebooks for the current year or last few years, for many countries. Lonely Planet, Frommers,etc can be borrowed for free for research. Good luck!

  • http://www.qwealthreport.com Peter Mac

    Truly beautiful photos.. thanks Simon

  • Gordy

    Hi Simon:

    Thanks for your editorials on every place you travel. It’s great to get a primer course on these areas and it certainly helps on the homework for us. As all of the wonderful bloggers are asking you questions where do we see your answers to those questions, if indeed, you even get a chance to answer.

    Yes, I am interested in vacationing in Ecuador and can you provide a few places along the ocean that may be ripe for the trip or a contact of someone in (alias your black book on Ecuador) for our files.

    Thanks again, you’re providing a wonderful service.

  • Stephen

    Simon – you mentioned having “trusted advisors” in Quito and Cuenca. I’d appreciate it if you’d be willing to share who they are. Thanks – Stephen

  • Marat

    Simon, lately I was thinking about a possibility of actually getting a mortgage to buy a property in Panama. I found out after a quick research that for property in Panama and probably also Belize you can get mortgages in Latin America. Lat 2 years I have worked in States and while I have a steady income it seems to me like a great idea to secure a fixed rate USD mortgage in foresight of raising interest rates. I have been contacting a person from OverseasMortgagesDirect (located in Ireland) and getting ready to fill one of their online application forms. He told rate is going to be 6.75% for 25 years. Do you have any experience with such organisations and can you recommend any particular one.

    Thanks a lot,
    Marat.

  • Gilbert Eriksen

    It’s not “snake oil” that makes those people live so long. It’s the bonded Calcium in the water coming from the glaciers at the higher elevations… up stream. The minerals in the glacial “milk” are captured and made bio-available by the tundra plants that feed off of it and pass the nutrients on to the people and the plants downstream. By drinking reasonably clean water with bonded Calcium and other nutrients in it as well as growing plants/crops with that same water the locals don’t have many of the degenerative diseases that we do. If they break a bone at the age of 100 it heals. If we do, we die. Diet makes a difference.

    • BW

      Gilbert, where did you get this info about the bonded Calcium and its relation to longevity? Haven’t heard about this.

      (Anyway, the reference to “snake oil” is to indicate that someone is trying to sell you worthless “benefits” for a meritless amount of money. They used to do this back in the old days – look it up.)

    • Jason

      Umm… I’ve been there.
      There are NO GLACIERS ANYWHERE in the ENTIRE province of Loja, nor, for that matter, anywhere in Ecuador– not even around Quito.

      Nice thought, but that’s certainly not the reason, Gilbert.

      @ Mike MacDonald…

      If you are gay and plan to be “out” down there, you’d be better off not going, period… or definitely buying a gun. VERY Catholic and VERY traditional. As far as “nightlife”… people walk around town at night (in Loja), light off some firecrackers or M-80′s whenever there’s a wedding or birthday (they LOVE loud bangs!), and are in bed (unless it’s Saturday night and they are at a bar) before 11 PM. That’s what I saw in the 3 months I lived there.

      • sdca

        I think Mike meant Ecuador as a whole, not just that province.
        And yes, to the guy who said ‘it’s not snake oil’, the article was stating that the folks selling these gated community lands at more money, telling foreign customers the land is more valuable than the village land up the road, are the ones who Simon thought ‘might give him a bottle of snake oil’ at the end of the tour of the property.

        He didn’t say anything about the fact that people are living long and well there, as being not true or snake oil=which as mentioned is in fact a way of saying ‘scammed’.

  • bob

    Simon,
    I’m very interested in retiring in the Dominican Republic and would be interested in any input from you.

    • sdca

      Search the archives on this forum! There are many many posts on the DR already.

  • “Mateo”

    thanks for sharing your adventures in Ecuador. I am currently in Costa Rica and now have first hand experience with their medical care receiving 7 sutures across my face from a fall.
    I’d love to hear more about Ecuador and hope to hear some interviews real soon.
    Pura Vida SB

  • tm

    Love the pictures! Is it really a five hour drive from Vilcabamba to Cuenca? Not sure I can get Peter to do that! May have to fly. How far from Cuenca to Guayaquil? Would love some contact info.

    • sdca

      Um, why not simply google driving distances between X and Y?
      Or, use google map ecuador for such info? You can get it in less than a minute.
      Lastly, check travel forums on lonely planet and other places-people have detailed info about what types of transit, road conditions and how long trip takes. Search their archives.

    • Josie Weir

      Yes about that. Faster to fly. Check out Tame airlines

  • Josie Weir

    I paid 50. 000 for my 2 acres and 60 for my custom made home;15 minutes from Vilcabamba Center town. It depends who you buy from. If you shop around you can still find good deals.

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