You are safe in Colombia

by Simon Black · View Comments

I know what you’re thinking.

“Why the hell would he be in Colombia?”

I get that a lot.  The vast majority of the world only knows two things about Colombia– drugs and terrorism (though in all fairness, ‘one man’s freedom fighter…’)

People recall hearing about kidnappings, lawlessness, and of course that scene from Clear and Present Danger… that must be the reality in Colombia, right?

Wrong. To think that cartels and kidnappings dominate the political and social landscape of Colombia is like thinking that everyone from Texas rides horses and wears cowboy boots… or even worse, acts like George W. Bush.

The fact of the matter is that you have about the same chance of getting kidnapped in the United States.

In Colombia, 8 foreigners out of roughly 1 million tourists were kidnapped in 2007, and 553 locals were kidnapped out of a population of 45 million.  That same year in the US there were 3,437 non-runaway abductions reported in the United States with a population of 300 million… pretty much the same odds.

Bottom line, if you don’t feel unsafe in the US, you shouldn’t feel unsafe in Colombia.

Furthermore, similar to how the United States adopted a culture of security after 9/11 with its ridiculous color-coded alerts and nationalization of panty-screeners at airports, Colombia (and Bogota in particular) has adopted its own culture of security.

Police and military forces are present everywhere… it’s impossible to walk on the streets Bogota for more than 5 minutes without seeing uniformed personnel and one of the billboards that says “The police are here to protect you.”

Fortunately, though, in my several visits to Bogota over the last few years, I have yet to have a negative encounter with the cops.  Whether in wealthy neighborhoods like the Zona Rosa, or more squalid areas in the southern part of the city, I’ve never seen the police hassling anyone.  It’s a show of force.

To further this point, Colombia’s tourism board recently changed the national tourism slogan to “Colombia– The only risk is wanting to stay…” (this is much better than Panama’s slogan “it will never leave you” which sounds more like a case of herpes.)

I couldn’t agree more. Colombia is an absolutely intoxicating country– beautiful, culturally vibrant, and economically sound. In fact, the most severe impacts of the crisis have largely sidestepped the country, which has shown the same resilience as Poland’s economy.

Bogota is a beautiful city

Bogota is a beautiful city

Here in Bogota, for example, the local newspapers are filled with help wanted ads for everything from medical transcriptionist to associate lawyer. Restaurants and shopping malls are not filled to capacity but still enjoying a steady flow of patrons.

There is also little sign of bubble carnage like closed shops, liquidation events, and an endless row of “FOR SALE” signs in front of properties.  In short, Colombia is appearing quite healthy relative to the rest of the world.

So would I live here? Absolutely. If you’re looking for a place that is off the beaten path, still undiscovered by the mainstream and quite close (3.5 hours) to the United States, I would strongly consider Colombia…

… but not Bogota. The capital city is nice enough, but unless you have to be in Bogota for a specific reason, the best city in Colombia in my opinion is Medellin.  In Medellin, the weather is… perfect. The people are extraordinarily friendly, the nightlife is spectacular, and the costs are very reasonable.

Bogota, in contrast, is slightly more expensive– I have posted a cost of living sample to the website for your review. But most of all, Bogota is a very difficult place to travel from. And for an international man, this is a big negative for me.

I would quite literally have to write you a sonnet to describe how inefficient the airport in Bogota is. The last time I was there it took me 2.5 hours from the time I arrived at the airport until I finally reached my gate.

check-in 'line' at Bogota airport

check-in 'line' at Bogota airport: waiting time 1 hour

Immigration "line" at Bogota airport: waiting time 45 minutes

Immigration "line" at Bogota airport: waiting time 45 minutes

I have been to Bogota several times, and each time I hope the situation improves. It doesn’t.  Medellin is a much more pleasant experience– more on this in future letters. In the meantime, if you have any experiences living in or visiting Colombia, please feel free to share here.

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  • John
    Colombia is moderately safe.. This is a country where Americans need to take extra precautions and really watch where they go alone.. I have always stayed in Northern Bogota, it seems the safest. It is easy for women to get robbed at knife or gun point if even sitting in a car more so than in the U.S because the police DO NOT CARE in Colombia! It is a beautiful country and lots of nice people but do becareful and always travel with friends.. Do not compare Colombian cities to any in the United States because even the worst cities in the United States are much more safe than those in Colombia..
  • Jeff
    I have been to Colombia each of the last 10 years and each time has been a wonderful experience. Normally I am in Cartagena though i also travel to Medellin and Barranquilla - by bus. I have never encountered any security problems or felt endangered in any way, and I do not speak Spanish. A history buff I get totally engulfed in in Cartagena. I sponsor a child through "Children International" and have seen her grow the past 5 years into a tremendous little girl -now 11 years old. Soon to retire full time there.
  • ROB
    I think COlombia is still a very dangerouns city. the crime in medalllin has escaleted BIG TIME recently. It is still very easy to get car jacked or robbed. It has happened to many friends even in the good areas.

    be careful..
  • clara
    Thank you for your positive notes on our beautiful country. It is heartwarming to read considering we Colombians are usually bombarded with bad press. As a U.S./Colombian binational, I appreciate the objective viewpoint of a foreigner. I am a native of Medellin and lived there for 13 years, and I must agree with your observations on the climate and the lifestyle. I would encourage you to visit Manizales - a small city in the coffee hub of our country with the warmest of Colombians. Although it does not have the economic growth of the larger cities, it makes up for it in culture, people and beautiful landscapes. I now live in Bogotá and the traffic is horrendous, but the opportunities for employment, education and entertainment are by far the largest in the country - so despite my love of "Medallo" and "Mi Manizales del Alma" I must live here for now. I have lived here a total of 22 years, and I have never had a threatening security issue, nor have any of my family members. Again, on behalf of 40 million proud Colombians, I thank you for your encouraging words about our country!

    I would be happy to continue corresponding with you about politics, culture, lifestyle and opportunities in Colombia. I am also good friends with Maria and Konrad Wiemann of Dallas, who forwarded your article, so it seems we have friends in common. Feel free to write me and good luck in your travels!
  • clara ines rico
    Hello Simon,
    Thank you for your positive notes on our beautiful country. It is heartwarming to read considering we Colombians are usually bombarded with bad press. As a U.S./Colombian binational, I appreciate the objective viewpoint of a foreigner. I am a native of Medellin and lived there for 13 years, and I must agree with your observations of the climate and the lifestyle. I would encourage you to visit Manizales - a small city in the coffee hub of our country with the warmest of Colombians. Although it does not have the economic growth of the larger cities, it makes up for it in culture, people and beautiful landscapes. I now live in Bogotá and the traffic is horrendous, but the opportunities for employment, education and entertainment are by far the largest in the country - so despite my love of "Medallo" and "Mi Manizales del Alma" I must live here for now. I have lived here a total of 22 years, and I have never had a threatening security issue, nor have any of my family members. Again, on behalf of 40 million proud Colombians, I thank you for your encouraging words about our country!
    p.s. I am good friends with Maria and Konrad Wiemann of Dallas, who forwarded your article.
  • I'm an expat American living in Colombia for the past 3 years. I was in Bogota first and then Medellin. Colombia has not been affected very much by the global economic collapse but may be by the end of the year.

    Medellin has beautiful women with traditional values. Yes, a nice climate; same temperature year round almost.

    Christine, both types of farming is available here.

    Let me know if you would like to chat about Colombia as I have a personal finance site for expats and it's focused on Colombia.
  • Marquelle
    Don't forgot about Cartagena....
  • antonius
    hi simon, i m already living more than 7 years in colombia.
    i agree that bogota with its climate and traffic is not the nicest city in colombia, but it has been the place were i had my job.
    we lived outside bogota in la calera,which is pretty nice.
    i traveled almost 4 times a month from bogota to other countries, but i can not share your experience at the airport, it sure is too small, but immigration and customs were in my experience always efficient and with avianca gold you do not have to stand in line with check in. flying to the usa however can be a pain in the ass, due to all the additional questioning and visa checks etc during check in. best advice come more to colombia, and earn more mileages with avianca
    i really like santa marta as investment opportunity in real estate in colombia
  • HGHdoges
    You are not safe in Colombia in the countryside. One of my best friends, a Colombian national married to an American, just got back from a month at her mother's and her farm outside of Chaparral, where the family has always lived. (Notice I said farm, as in poor back-country peasant acreage, not estate.) Her brother is a policeman in an adjoining district. She was phoned not once but twice by guerillas (or people pretending to be) saying she must surrender to them a cow. Both times she went to the local police and consulted her brother. Both times she was strongly told to give them the cow, that she would truly be in danger if she did not, that the police could do nothing. She submitted--a huge loss to a peasant farm. For a large, long overview, read the article in Harper's magazine of about a year ago. Maybe in the middle of large cities you'd be fine. But that's not what I'd call safe. This is a once wonderful country we Americans have well and truly armed and ruined. My friend has long urged me to go with her; now she sadly agrees my fear is justified.
  • Lindsay
    Bogotá is a Wonderful place. The security is a little less imposing given that half of the K-9's are golden retrievers who start wagging their tails looking for attention when you walk by. I spent several months living in the Chico neighborhood. My fianceé and I did a lot of late night walking between Avenues 7-20 and Streets 80-120 and never felt unsafe. I did see a lot of new construction and vacant, for-sale apartments which gave me the sense of overbuilding. They looked really nice though.

    I don't know about the farming, but outside the city I saw miles and miles of beautiful dark rich soil.
  • Carlos
    I very much appreciate the positive view of Bogotá/Colombia. However, as a ½ Colombian who has visited frequently all my life, I have a slightly different perspective. The recent years of stability under Uribe have made a huge difference that might account for a lot of your positive view. While I'm not going on any statistics, I've always regularly heard of family members and friends who've been kidnapped, drugged and robbed, or messed up in auto accidents (traffic is horrible there). As social and family networks are much stronger and more extensive, there is a slight bias from a grape-vine basis, but the security situation in years past has certainly been worse. Your US crime comparison suffers from one subtle facet: much of the crime in the US happens among the poor in bad neighborhoods. I'd bet a decent neighborhood in the US is definitely safer than almost anywhere in Colombia. But with some reasonable precautions, it's fairly safe for foreigners.

    I think it's great that you find Bogotá physically beautiful. I think it's polluted, crowded, and as I said traffic is horrible and worsening with the good times. But maybe I take the good things like the surrounding mountains for granted having grown up with them. As for the airport, it's never taken me quite 2.5 hours, but we always get there 3 hours ahead of time just to be safe.

    But the bad things aside, The people are very warm and vivacious (quite a contrast from Chile where I live now, a country that has had vastly better economic success). Outside of Bogotá, the country is of course gorgeous. Colombia is probably a great place to invest given the improving security and corruption, a potential reverse of such trends being the downside risk that also make the upside potentially excellent. And the low tax, capitalistic spirit has been strong for a good 20 years. The taxes on our family investments for example are very low. It's actually one of the reasons I'm not a libertarian; almost everything is private with no decent public parks, libraries, etc. If you're wealthy and well connected the country clubs and dinner parties are great, but the vast majority of the populace can't enjoy such niceties. The best role of government is a complex beast, I think.

    So all-in-all, Simon's assessment isn't too far from my experience, but I'm definitely delighted to hear such a positive review from a foreigner.
  • Robert
    Yes, Simon, I agree with your analysis. I've lived in Colombia for the last 3 years, in Bogota, and now in Medellin. Medellin has arguably the best looking women in the world, and very traditional values.

    It's as safe as any large cities in the states but as in all of Latin America, there are people desperate for money.

    Colombia is holding up well during the global recession.
  • Christine
    Is the farming in Colombia Organic, Non-Organic, or both?
  • erik gustafson
    Bogota is spectacular. The climate is cool and wonderful, and the golf is the best in South America with two excellent courses being El Rincon and Los Legartos.
  • Gary
    I could not agree more...Colombia is a wonderful and safe country. I have been there many times to many cities and agree that Medellin is the nicest for bigger cities. On any Sunday morning, it seems like 50% of the population is out running, biking, or doing some form of exercise on the beautiful mountain roads around Medellin. And we have not even touched on the incomparable beauty of the female inhabitants...of which Medellin is second best. Pereira, a smaller city in Colombia, is unequivocally the beauty capital of the world...
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